Hang Ah Alley

Hang Ah Alley is a quiet little walkway in Chinatown, halfway between Grant Avenue and Stockton. At the Clay Street end there’s an inscription on the sidewalk.

Originally named Pagoda Alley, the name became Hang Ah (“Fragrance”) when a German chemist opened a perfumerie in the 19th century.

One of my first tastings of San Francisco dim sum occurred at the Hang Ah Tea Room in the 1970’s, where my parents, grandmother and I celebrated the completion of my education (finally!) at the local university. The restaurant is still in business and with a fresh coat of paint looks better than I remembered.


The alley was empty this weekday afternoon, and I could hear the distinct clacking of the mah-jongg tiles behind this door.