Han Sung BBQ, Santa Clara

Hot coals are lowered a foot from diners' plates.

It was our first time at the Han Sung BBQ, and it was a good thing that we brought our appetites. (It was also a good thing that we went on a Sunday, when Lenten strictures against indulgence are suspended.)

Korean restaurants were serving small plates of kim chi and seasoned vegetables long before "small plates" became fashionable in other cuisines. We sampled everything, including sauces of uncertain provenance. (One is always taking a chance with unfamiliar condiments, which is why one should have lots of beer close by to put out the fire.)

Speaking of fire, Han Sung BBQ uses coals, not the propane or natural gas found in other grill-it-yourself restaurants. It makes for a more spectacular presentation when the flaming coals are lowered into the well; the heat is less intense than with gas, and we had to wait a bit longer for the meat to cook. The chicken, beef, and pork had a pleasant smokey flavor.

The total tab, including drinks, tax, and tip, was a reasonable $30 per person. We'll be back. © 2013 Stephen Yuen