Nico's Pier 38

On Wednesday night there's still a 20-minute wait

After a week of non-stop eating, my traveling companions asked that first-world question, "Where are we going for dinner?"

They don't come to Hawaii as often as I do, so we had different perspectives on opportunity and opportunity costs. (I'm being too subtle, so let me be clear: I'm fine with skipping a meal, they weren't.)

I suggested Nico's Pier 38, a fine-dining bar and restaurant with an open-air informal atmosphere. It's a favorite of the tourists because there's a nice view of Honolulu Harbor during the day.

The locals go there because there's plenty of free parking on the dirt lot. I like but don't love Nico's as many reviewers do, but if one is okay with high quality and small portions it's a good place to go.

I got an appetizer while my tablemates ordered fish and shrimp entrees. Table service was slow due to staffing shortages, but on the bright side it gave everyone an opportunity to put down their phones and talk to each other.

I took another look around the room: generously spaced tables, live music, enough ambient noise to keep every group's conversations private, a broad selection of drinks. It's a place where Mainlanders, the majority this evening, felt comfortable.

In the right context I can see why people give it five stars.