Cheese Names Stand Alone

Wisconsin's Bel Gioioso found that its "American Grana"
was illegal because of Italy's Grana Padano. (WSJ photo)

Sartori Co. is a family-owned Wisconsin cheesemaker that has been in business since 1939. The company makes its own versions of Asiago, Parmesan, and Romano. However, due to European Union naming restrictions on imports,

Sartori had to trademark new names, leading to the birth of “Sartiago” and “Sarmesan."

Moreover, EU trade agreements will soon force changes to the names of American cheese exports to Vietnam, Singapore, Japan, and Mexico, among others.

In America we are accustomed to companies protecting their names, formulas, and logos through trademark, patent, and copyright law. Europe seems to be putting a wall around words for geographic regions and whole industries; it is also trying to extend the moat worldwide through trade agreements.

Europe's position is somewhat understandable---Americans wouldn't like it if Chinese winemakers labeled their product as Sonoma (Sino ma?) white. Nevertheless, this principle could be taken too far. What if 100 cheese names were off limits? What about 1,000?

The unintended consequence to Europe would be if this barrier induces American suppliers to change what consumers value in cheese, for example, what the cows are fed (e.g., organic corn, organic grass), the breed of cow (e.g., Guernsey, White Holstein), or manufacturing process (no mold!, no anaerobic bacteria! made with sea salt! ).

Protectionism often boomerangs on the industries being protected.